In July 2018 I attended the International Napoleonic Society conference in Vienna. Before the conference I first travelled to Innsbruck where I visited the Tyrol Panorama Museum.
This panorama depicts the battle of Bergisel, where Tyrolean rebels led by Andreas Hofer fought Bavarian troops allied to Napoleon. It is an impressive piece of work (people who have visited Waterloo will be familiar with the panorama format.

The canvas is vast at 1000 square metres and dates from 1896. The audio guide was at pains to point out the Tyrolean uniforms depicted were very much a late 19th century interpretation.

The Vienna conference included a visit to the battlefields of Aspern and Wagram. I was struck by the symbolism of the Austrian war memorial in Aspern. It shows the Austrian lion mortally wounded – not a great advert for Austrian military prowess one might think – but look closer, and you can see the wounded lion sits atop a crushed Napoleonic eagle.

The next image shows the famous granary at Essling which the French held as a stronghold. This was poignant for me as the French commander was General Jean Boudet – not perhaps a household name, but it was his division which won the day at Marengo in 1800. I translated his campaign journal from 1800 (published on the Napoleon Series website. You can access it for free here: https://www.napoleon-series.org/military/battles/1800/Italy/Marengo/MarengoBoudet.pdf

We traveled from Aspern onto Lobau Island. At the battle of Wagram the French army crossed over this heavily wooded island and crossed the various branches of the Danube. It must have been a significant undertaking.
From Lobau we visited the Wagram Museum. There were some reenactors there depicting Austrian uniforms.

We also visited an archaeological dig on the battlefield. I hope to discuss this in more detail in a separate post. The archaeologists had recently discovered another grave just before our arrival. This poor soul has a bayonet resting on his leg – and someone else’s leg!














